“Too fast”. The constant refrain of the Beijing taxi driver when you got to talking about the pace of change in China, a topic you’d always cover at some point during the journey. Back in the day you’d hail a cab and jump in next to the driver, and it was only a matter of time before the conversation would turn to China’s “rise”.
These days you can’t even stick your arm out in the street and wave one down: it’s almost impossible to get a taxi in Beijing without booking through an app. I wonder how those old cabbies are coping with the new technology. They were definitely resistant to “development” way before apps got in the way of their rides.
Too fast everywhere in China, and in Tibet as well. Even since our cookbook published in 2022, so much has changed. When Yeshi was growing up in rural Tibet, most of his relatives, friends and neighbours led a semi-nomadic existence, spending half the year at home, and the rest of the time up the mountains herding sheep and yaks.
But visiting family in Tibet last year we discovered that only three people in the village are still living in this way. Yeshi’s brother Jamphel is one of them. The younger generation are typically seeking work in the nearby cities and towns.
It used to be the case that immediate families were not separated in this way. They lived and worked together, spending much of their time fermenting, preserving and curing meat, fruit and vegetables, a practice that was key to survival during the cold winter months.
But there’s a thundering big fridge/freezer in the new kitchen now, a piece of machinery that more or less removes the need to engage in such laborious tasks. Once upon a time the only meat the family enjoyed during winter was yak jerky, but now that they’re able to freeze large quantities of fresh meat there’s far more variation.
If all it takes is a fridge and a freezer to eradicate centuries-old traditions, you start to wonder how long Tibetan butter tea will endure. Indubitably Tibet’s most popular drink, butter has always been used in place of milk, which spoils very quickly. But churning the milk requires skills that will surely struggle to survive when the need is no longer there.
We’re keeping Tibetan traditions alive and well over on the other side of the world here. Come and see us! We’re open all the usual hours this week, as follows:
Weds – Fri: 5-9.30pm (dinner only)
Saturday: 12-3 / 5-9.30pm
Sunday: 12-3 / 5-9pm
This week’s menu is up on the website – check it. Come by for take-away, dine-in or you can order home delivery through Deliveroo.
Our freezers are also packed with all the nutritious meals you don’t have time to make yourselves – come have a forage.
A note about cookbooks. Our publisher is investigating delays with Amazon delivery times atm. If you’re in the market for a copy of Taste Tibet you can always buy one with us (at the restaurant or online). We are happy to sign and dedicated yours as you wish, and if you come by the restaurant did you know that we also throw in a Taste Tibet tote bag as well? (RRP £7).
Finally, if you’re in the market for TT discounts and freebies just subscribe to our weekly Substack to receive offers direct to your inbox.
Looking forward to seeing you all soon!
Julie and Yeshi
Opening hours this week:
Weds – Fri: 5-9.30pm
Saturday: 12-3pm 🥢 5-9.30pm
Sunday: 12-3pm 🥢 5-9pm
☏ 01865 499318
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